Lifetime Radon Solutions uses electronic monitors for our radon testing. Once your new radon system is up and running, our radon tech conducts the radon test before leaving your home.
The radon test has a 24 hour delay to give the system sometime to draw the radon gas out of your home. After 24 hours, the radon monitor will sample the air in your home every hour, for 48 hours.
Lifetime Radon Solutions provides a lifetime warranty on workmanship as long as the radon system is moved, altered or tampered with in any way.
The radon fan has a five year warranty and Lifetime Radon Solutions guarantees to keep your homes radon levels under 4 pCi/L for 10 years.
Lifetime Radon Solutions technicians are scheduled to perform 2-3 jobs per day, with their first job starting onsite at 8AM.
The typical timeframe for an average radon system installation is 2-4 hours.
Per EPA standards, the radon mitigation fan cannot be inside the living envelope. The main reason for this is because if the fan ever leaks from the top of the fan, radon will be exhausted directly into your home.
Acceptable locations for a radon fan are in a garage, attic of a garage or attic of your home or on the exterior of your home.
Lifetime Radon Solutions uses what's called schedule 40 cellular core white PVC piping.
With the changing seasons and harsh weather conditions in Southeaster Wisconsin, the PVC pipe provides a better solution to help avoid condensation and freezing of your radon mitigation system.
There is a major misconception that a radon mitigation system needs to start and run out of a sump crock in the basement of a home. Although, running a radon system out of a sump crock is a great solution, it is not the only way to mitigate radon gas.
Some radon mitigation companies prefer mitigating radon from the sump crock, even when the sump crock is located in the front of a home. This is because it is easy for them to install. Lifetime Radon Solutions installs custom radon mitigation systems, built to fit the unique character of any home.
If your home as a sump crock, it most likely has a drain tile system. Your drain tile system runs around the perimeter of your basement. Lifetime Radon Solutions technicians can just as effectively mitigate radon gas by running the system out from your homes drain tile system. Mitigating radon from your drain tile system as opposed to your sump crock provides significantly more flexibility in the placement of your radon mitigation system. This ensures that your radon system will be effective without becoming an eye sore on the exterior of your home.
Many new homes being built today are advertised as Radon Resistant New Construction (RRNC for short). You would think with a name like this the homes actually resist radon, but all RRNC means is that radon mitigation system pipes have been pre-installed in the home. Typically, they run up through walls inside the home for a more discreet installation than what is done on existing homes.
Trouble is, there’s no radon mitigation fan in place. Without a fan, you have what's known as a passive radon mitigation system—which accomplishes very little. You really need the exhaust fan to actually remove radon and have a truly radon resistant home. For the small cost of having a fan installed, you are better off bypassing a radon test altogether and just getting a fan installed.
We are certified by The National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP), the credentialing and certification division of AARST (American Association of Radon Scientists and Technicians). Certification to NRPP standards is an ongoing effort which requires bi-annual documentation of expertise and performance.
The amount of radiation you're exposed to depends entirely on the radon levels in your home. To complicate things even more, radon levels can fluctuate throughout the year depending on weather and meteorological conditions. To give you a rough idea, though, in a home with radon levels of 4 pCi/L (the level at which mitigation is recommended), 8 hours of exposure is the equivalent of receiving 200 chest x-rays per year.
In order for the test to get accurate data on the radon level in your home, the windows of your house should be kept closed. Normal entry into and exit from the house is okay, as long as doors aren’t held open for extended periods of time. Also, whole house fans or window fans should not be used during the testing period.
Virtually all radon mitigation systems require a small fan in the PVC piping to keep the air moving upward through the pipe and out of your home. This fan runs constantly, year after year. Although it is inside the PVC tubing, it is audible from outside as a humming noise. How noticeable this is depends on where the PVC tubing is placed.
There are three areas where a mitigation fan can be located: 1) Outside the house, along a wall; 2) In a garage; 3) In an attic.
When placed outside along a wall, you might hear the fan if you open your windows. It’s also possible for the fan to cause the tubing to vibrate against your house if the tubing mounts come loose.
In a garage, the fan is usually positioned above the cross beams. Although you can hear it running, it’s not as loud as a bathroom fan and you can only hear it when you’re in the garage.
If the fan is in the attic, you’ll probably never hear it running unless you go up in the attic to check on it.
While patching cracks in the floor is always a good idea, doing this in conjunction with one of the commercially available sealants promoted as a radon barrier is going to do very little. Radon travels easily through concrete and most of these so-called sealants. These DIY solutions are routinely busted by state and federal agencies for making claims they can't live up to.
Here's something else to consider: Any of the high-build epoxy coatings which might prevent some radon from entering through your basement slab are so labor intensive and time consuming that you would be far better off just hiring someone to do the job correctly and efficiently.
The most effective solution is a sub-slab depressurization radon mitigation system (like the ones we install). These are far more effective in removing radon from your home than any attempts at sealing it out, and in many cases, particularly with large basement floors, they are more cost-effective.
Our radon test lasts 48 hours. We set up our equipment in the areas likely to show the highest readings for radon and they record data continuously for the next 48 hours. We then pick up our equipment from your home and analyze the results. In most cases, you will have the results from your radon test the day we pick up our equipment.
For a more detailed picture of radon levels, a year-long test is advisable. However, few homeowners have the time or budget for such an extensive test. The accuracy of our equipment in a 48-hour test is more than sufficient to let you know if your home has high levels of radon or not.
The only drawback we can think of is that most homeowners notice a small increase in their energy bills. This is attributable to a small fan in the mitigation system running all the time. The small increase in energy costs is certainly worth the peace of mind that comes with knowing your home has greatly reduced radon levels.
It is typical for condensation to form inside the exhaust tube of a radon mitigation system. Any condensation that forms, along with what little rain water gets in, will simply trickle into the ground. Debris rarely ever gets into an exhaust pipe. This is because the force of air exiting the pipe prevents anything from entering. We sometimes have customers ask us if it's a good idea to put a screen over the exhaust vent to prevent any debris from entering. This is actually a bad idea, due to the potential for ice to accumulate on the screen and clog the exhaust.
The home radon tests available at stores, and often from your local health department, have an accuracy rating of only ±20%. These test devices are small metal containers, roughly the same size and shape as a tin of tuna. Inside is activated charcoal, which absorbs radon in the air. If you are planning to use this sort of testing device, it's a good idea to use two of them during the testing period and average the results of the two devices.
For a more accurate assessment of radon levels, it is recommended to have a certified radon testing company perform the test with continuous electronic radon monitors.
We always test the radon levels in homes after installing mitigation systems. We typically see homes with a pre-mitigation reading of 4 pCi/L coming in at 1 to 2 pCi/L after installing radon mitigation systems.
Radon rises through the soil below the foundation of buildings, where it gets trapped under the foundation and increases in pressure. Because the air pressure inside homes and other buildings is lower than the pressure in the soil, radon gas will work its way through any small cracks or gaps in the floors and walls of buildings.
Radon can also get into homes through water, especially in homes with well water. The gas dissolves in water and is released through steam and condensation once inside the home. Although radon can be ingested by drinking well water with radon in it, the risks are considered much lower than the risk of breathing in radon.
No. High radon levels affect both old and new homes. However, a 2014 study that looked at radon levels in 273 Sauk County homes found an interesting correlation between newer homes and higher radon levels. Researchers noted that homes built after 2001 had the highest percentage of test results above the EPA recommended action level. One likely explanation is that the newer, more tightly sealed homes produce a stronger suction effect than older, draftier, less well insulated houses. So, while you might think you're better protected against radon in a new home, it could very well be the exact opposite.
Wrong. Homes without basements are just as much at risk of having radon contamination as homes with basements.
Contact the Milwaukee radon testing and mitigation experts at Lifetime Radon Solutions today to get your home, school or business tested.